Prague was difficult.

I did not feel comfortable with Prague, at first.

It really should be noted that Prague would be a much better place to visit if it weren’t for all those damn tourists. I have to tell you, they really get on your nerves. Everywhere you go there are throngs of them acting like total butt-heads.

But even worse is the ever present tour group, sometimes numbering 50 strong. They will crush you with their centrifugal source. They are terrifying and they are totally omnipotent, at least in their own mind.

But in truth, the bitter fact is that Prague made me think.

There is no question that Prague is beautiful. And Prague is very old, even by European standards.

One conversation I was involved in summed up my unease, but I had to think long and hard to realize it.

Mary was our tour guide at the Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral. (Yes, Richard and I went on one of the detestable tours, but it was small and we were not as abhorrent as all the others. We were the good tour group!) She was wonderful and an unapologetic atheist. If you want an amazing tour of a Catholic Cathedral, I would strongly recommend an atheistic tour guide. Even Richard loved Mary, although he felt her a bit morbid.

At one point, Mary, Vivienne (Australian) and the two of us were talking. (There were three additional tour members who were Russian. Mary spoke Czech, Russian and English: and perhaps more.)

Vivienne mentioned that she had heard that 55% of Czech citizens were atheistic. Mary replied that it was more like 80%, but she referenced the Czech Republic’s new deity. “I miss our godless society. We have a new god and it is money.”

It took time for it to sink in, and additional conversations, but I finally understood that I was watching the gracelessness of a society adjusting to capitalism and to freedom. Most, but not all of the changes were good.

And yes, I now love Prague.